a day of aimless wandering in český krumlov

Monday, October 2:  Today is a bright and cheery day.  Since it’s a Monday and all museums are closed, we have nothing to do but wander around Český Krumlov.  Mike has a hankering to go on a raft ride down the Vltava River, but after he tries several times to call the outfitter and gets no answer, he wants to walk down to the river to try to find the office.  We take off after a decent breakfast at Penzion U Matesa, walking through the cobbled streets.

streets of Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov
Vltava River in Český Krumlov
St. Vitus Church in Český Krumlov
wandering through town

We’re delighted to find a small church in a leafy park setting.

a shaded church
hidden church

We continue following the river in search of the rafting outfitter.

the Vltava

We find the address, but the office door is closed, so we descend steps down to the river.  There is no one to be found, so they must be closed on Mondays along with the closed museums. Mike is disappointed and wonders what we’ll do all day. I’m always happy to linger and meander and drop into shops as the urge strikes, so I don’t share his concerns.

a derelict building near the boat dock

We cross one of the bridges and continue walking through the town, admiring the red roofs, the whimsically shaped stucco buildings, and the castle tower and church steeples.

We find a map of Český Krumlov at the top of a hill.  I wish I could do aerial photography because I’d love to capture this view with my camera.

Map of Český Krumlov

We come upon the looming St. Vitus Church in Český Krumlov, and this time we decide to go inside.  If you’d like to read more about the church, click on the link.

St. Vitus Church
St. Vitus Church
St. Vitus Church
interior of St. Vitus Church

We make our way to the town center, known as náměstí Svornosti, with its 16th century Town Hall and 1716 Marian Plague Column. Several buildings on the square feature valuable stucco and painted decorations (Lonely Planet).

náměstí Svornosti
náměstí Svornosti & the Marian Plague Column
náměstí Svornosti

We find an exhibit of candy-colored Porsches in the square. They entice like shiny Matchbox cars.

Porsche display at náměstí Svornosti

We continue our walk through the swirls of the town, poking our heads into shops now and then, much to Mike’s dismay.  I love the round-top facades and pastel colors of the buildings.  The streets are packed with tourists, especially Chinese.

Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov

Walking through town, we see views of St. Jošt Church and Český Krumlov State Castle and Tower.

St. Jošt Church
Český Krumlov State Castle
St. Jošt Church

We stop at an outdoor cafe along the Vltava River for a lunchtime cheese sampler and coffee. It’s a perfect day, crisp, sunny and full of possibilities.

me with a cheese plate

We decide to split up for an hour and half and go our separate ways.  I want to take a photo walk around the town, dipping into shops when the urge hits me.  Mike decides to walk around the perimeter of the town, on the outer edges of the Vltava.  Following are the photos I took during my meanderings.

streets of Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov

I love some of the delightful little details I find on the streets of the town.

I love this box of fun signs, especially this: TEENAGERS: TIRED OF BEING HARASSED BY YOUR PARENTS?  ACT NOW!  MOVE OUT, GET A JOB, PAY YOUR OWN WAY WHILE YOU STILL KNOW EVERYTHING.  (Sounds like something I’d like to say to someone I know, except he’s not a teenager!)

fun signs
colorful Český Krumlov
pretty in pink

I get to a bridge at the far end where I see a park behind the castle.  Later Mike tells me he walked in this park. If it weren’t for the dog with the fellow seen below, I’d have sworn he was Mike.

a park
Český Krumlov
St. Jošt Church
Český Krumlov State Castle
vintage signs

Even though we arranged to meet at our hotel at a specific time, Český Krumlov is so small that we run into each other near this cute little cafe.

a cute coffee shop

Mike shares some of the pictures he took on his walk:

Together again, we climb above the town on the perimeter, where we find some different views.

St. Vitus Church
Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov
fall colors

After meandering on the outskirts of the town, we find ourselves back at the center again.

We get another view of Český Krumlov Tower, difficult to avoid in this town!

Český Krumlov Tower

We pause for a few shots on the Horni Bridge, with St. Vitus in the background.

We continue our stroll.

After we’ve seen every nook and cranny of Český Krumlov, we stop once more at the same restaurant where we stopped earlier, this time for a piece of blueberry cake.  Tired from a few beers and all our walking , we return to our room for a little rest before dinner.

After our rest, we walk back into Český Krumlov to find a vegetarian restaurant we checked out earlier – Laibon.

walking back to town for dinner
Český Krumlov State Castle

When we stumbled upon Laibon earlier today, we made reservations for this evening.  Below is the restaurant in the daytime, cheery and inviting.

Laibon

Whimsical cave paintings of animals romp on the rough cave-like walls.

cave paintings in Laibon
cave paintings in Laibon

When we return to Laibon in the evening, the weather has become colder and grayer.  We sit outside on a picnic table beside the Vltava River and order dinner, accompanied by cold beers.  The owner is welcoming and a little silly, making for a fun evening despite the chill in the air.  He gives us light blankets to put over our legs, but sadly they aren’t warm enough.  We enjoy our meal, but we’re shivering the entire time!

Our our way back to our room, we find a few metal signs and license plates along the way. I’m surprised to find U.S. state license plates in Czech Republic!

license plates
pig sign

Tomorrow, we’ll be heading to Prague, where we have four days to explore.  I wish I’d brought warmer clothes! It’s getting colder now that October is upon us.

Total steps today: 15,645 (6.63 miles).

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