budapest: great market hall & the hungarian state opera house

Tuesday, September 26:  After leaving Elizabeth Bridge, we get back on Váci utca heading toward the Nagycsarnok, or Great Market.  Once inside, we wind our way through the crowds in search of lunch.  The lower level has fruit, vegetable and meat stalls, but the upper level has Hungarian dry goods and hot food stalls. All the food stalls, which have enticing food such as stuffed cabbage rolls, are fronted by long lines, and all seats are taken.  It will be a long wait to get any food here, and even when we do get some, there will be no place to eat it.

Regretting those missed cabbage rolls, we go back out to Váci utca, where we find the Old Street Cafe.  Here we stop and sit outside in a patch of sunlight.  I ask the waiter what the man next to me has on his plate, and he tells me it’s a Stuffed pancake Hortobágy style, a pancake stuffed with chicken and covered in gravy.  I order that.  Mike orders Tuscan tomato soup (Pappa al Pomodoro) with celery and a cucumber salad.  He’s certainly being more healthy than I am. 🙂

After lunch, we go back into the Great Market Hall, the largest and oldest indoor market in Budapest.  It was built and designed by Samu Pecz around 1897.

The Great Market

The Hall’s colorful roof is covered in Zsolnay tiles from Pécs, Hungary’s fifth largest city.  I love these tiles, found in so many places in Budapest.  The 10,000 square meter building has a Gothic Revival entrance gate and is covered by a steel structure.  Completely damaged during the World Wars, restorations brought the market back to life in the 1990s.

The Great Market
The Great Market
rooftop of The Great Market

On the ground floor, we find a folk group playing some lively tunes.

musicians at The Great Market

We wander around the ground floor first, among the stalls of produce, meats, dairy products, pastries, candies, spices, and spirits.  We see local salamis, cheeses, Hungarian paprika, foie gras, caviar and garlands of dried peppers and garlic.  We find spirits such as Tokaji (wines from the Tokaj region), and local snacks such as Túró Rudi, a bar with a thin chocolate-flavored outer coating and an inner filling of túró, or curd.

salamis and meats at The Great Market
fruit at The Great Market
fruit at The Great Market
dried chili peppers at The Great Market
fruit extravaganza

The basement contains butcher shops, the fish market, and picked vegetables including the traditional cucumber pickles, as well as cauliflower, cabbage, beets, tomatoes, and garlic.  However, we don’t visit the basement as we find plenty on the top two levels to keep us occupied.

Click on any of the photos below for a full-sized slide show.

The second floor has mainly eateries and souvenirs.  We find matryoshka dolls, sets of wooden dolls of decreasing size placed one inside another.

matryoshka dolls

Wonderful red-cheeked Santa ornaments smile at us in a festive display.

Santas

I fall in love with this poster, which captures the Széchenyi Thermal Baths’ Old World charm.  This becomes one of my purchases. 🙂  Mike also buys a gray T-shirt with a white bicycle on it.

vintage posters

The Hungarian laces are intricately woven and colorful.

Hungarian lace

I’m also tempted by the folk art, but I can only carry so much in my already full suitcase!

folk art
ornaments

Click on any of the photos below for a full-sized slide show.

After our foray through the Great Market Hall, we hop on the tram and then switch to Metro 1 to get to the Hungarian State Opera House.  We’re determined on our last day in Budapest to join the 3:00 English tour.  You can only visit with a guided tour, and we already missed this on our first day. There are guided tours of the building in six languages (English, German, Spanish, French, Italian and Hungarian) almost every day.

on the metro to Opera
Opera Metro stop

The Neo-Renaissance Hungarian State Opera House, with some elements of Baroque, was designed by Miklós Ybl, one of Europe’s leading architects in the mid- to late-nineteenth century.  Although not famous for its size or capacity, acoustically it is considered to be one of the world’s finest.  It was built in 1884.

The season lasts from September to the end of June and, in addition to opera performances, the House is home to the Hungarian National Ballet.

In front of the building are statues of Ferenc Erkel, who composed the Hungarian national anthem, “Himnusz,” and was the first music director of the Opera House; he was also founder of the Budapest Philharmonic Orchestra.  A statue of Franz Liszt, the best known Hungarian composer, is also featured.

Hungarian State Opera

Inside the Opera House are fabulous paintings and sculptures by leading figures of Hungarian art including Bertalan Székely (1835 – 1910), a Hungarian history and portrait painter who worked in the Romantic and Academic Styles; Mór Than (1828 – 1899), Hungarian painter; and Lotz Károly Antal Pál (1833-1904), a German-Hungarian painter (Wikipedia: Hungarian State Opera House).

The tour starts at the Grand Staircase, which leads from the two sides of the foyer directly to the ground floor auditorium entrances.

The Grand Staircase

The golden-coffered reflective ceiling above the Grand Staircase features Mór Than’s paintings across nine squares representing “The Awakening and Victory of Music,” while the decorations featuring mythological scenes above the windows are also his work, according to the Opera House website.

elaborate ceilings
elaborate ceilings
arches
more ceiling paintings

The Feszty Bar, with its warm noble oak paneling, has a low richly gilded ceiling with paintings of Dionysus’s birth and upbringing; its walls are decorated with landscape paintings.  This is where the country’s finest citizens gather to see and be seen.

the Feszty Bar

Flanking the Feszty Bar is a smoking corridor decorated with blue-gold drapes.

The horseshoe-shaped, three-floored auditorium supposedly seats 1,261 people, although today, the floor seats have been removed in preparation for a big renovation, which will take place over the next several years.  At one time, vents under the seats blew out air mixed with water to create a moist atmosphere.

the auditorium
the stage of the Hungarian State Opera House
the right flank of the Opera House boxes

The round ceiling is decorated with Károly Lotz’s cupola fresco, titled the “Apotheosis of Music.”  At center is the lute-playing Apollo, with an audience of Olympic gods, the graces, muses and demons. Miklós Ybl designed the chandelier, which is lowered to the ground floor with the aid of a winch twice a year to replace its expired bulbs.

“Apotheosis of Music” fresco on cupola
“Apotheosis of Music” fresco on cupola

According to legend, when the Empress and Queen Elisabeth, affectionately known as Sisi, wished to break her solitude in the Royal Palace of Gödöllő by visiting the Hungarian capital, she watched performances from what is now called the Sisi box. Our guide tells us she couldn’t see the stage from here.  Greatly admired by the Hungarian people, she attended to be seen, not to see!

The Sisi Box

This statue bears a resemblance to Sisi, but is actually a famous opera singer.

Opera singer resembling Sisi

At the end of the tour, we get to see a mini-concert, which is quite funny as the singer holds open an accordion book of the many women he tries to juggle in his life.

Mini concert
all the singer’s women friends

Across the street from the Hungarian State Opera House is a now-abandoned building that is waiting for the right owner to revive it in some form.

Former grand building across from the Opera House

We leave the Opera House, walking up Andrassy ut in search of the Terror House.

budapest: the great synagogue & a stroll down váci utca in belváros

Tuesday, September 26: Today is our last day in Budapest, and we head out early so we’ll arrive at the Great Synagogue by opening time.  As usual, we walk out of our Airbnb courtyard onto Kazinczy utca and past Szimpla Kert.  Tonight, we’re determined to go inside the famous ruin bar to check it out.

Szimpla Kert

The Great Synagogue, also known as the Dohány Street Synagogue, is the largest synagogue in Europe and the second largest in the world, seating 3,000 people.

On our way to the front of the Synagogue, we peek through the gate at the Raoul Wallenberg Emlékpark (memorial park) in the rear courtyard.  This courtyard holds the Memorial of the Hungarian Jewish Martyrs, created by Imre Varga, which resembles a weeping willow.  The leaves on the metal “tree of life” are inscribed with the family names and tattoo numbers of victims.

According to one source, at least 400,000 Hungarian Jews were murdered by the Nazis, but our guide in the synagogue tells us 600,000 Hungarian Jews were killed from 1944-1945.  Many of them came from the more Orthodox rural areas outside of Budapest.

Holocaust Memorial

Dohány Street once bordered the Budapest Ghetto, part of the old Jewish quarter set aside by the Nazis, where Hungarian Jews were forced to relocate by the Hungarian Government during the last years of World War II, from November 29, 1944 until January 17, 1945.

Great Synagogue

The synagogue was built between 1854 and 1859 in the Moorish Revival style, based on Islamic models from North Africa and medieval Spain, most notably the Alhambra. The Viennese architect didn’t believe a distinctly Jewish style could be identified, and thus borrowed the style of people who he thought were most closely related to the Israelites, notably the Arabs, according to Wikipedia: Dohány Street Synagogue.

interior of the Great Synagogue

According to our tour guide, the building consists of three richly decorated aisles, two balconies and, oddly, an organ.  The design is more like that of a basilica than a synagogue. Normally synagogues don’t have organs or cemeteries.  The seats on the ground floor were originally for men while the women sat in the upper galleries.

Our guide tells us there are very few openly practicing Jews in Budapest; most Jewish people today are more secular.

The ark contains various Torah scrolls taken from other synagogues destroyed during the Holocaust.

interior of the Great Synagogue

The decorations inside the synagogue are stunning.

interior of the Great Synagogue
interior of the Great Synagogue

After our tour, we wander around the courtyard to see the Memorial of the Hungarian Jewish Martyrs up close.

Memorial of the Hungarian Jewish Martyrs
Memorial of the Hungarian Jewish Martyrs
Memorial of the Hungarian Jewish Martyrs

There is also a memorial to Raoul Gustaf Wallenberg (born 1912 – death date unknown), a Swedish architect, businessman, diplomat and humanitarian.  He is memorialized for saving tens of thousands of Jews in Nazi-occupied Hungary during the later stages of World War II.  While serving as Sweden’s special envoy in Budapest between July and December 1944, he issued protective passports and sheltered Jews in buildings designated as Swedish territory.

When the Red Army lay siege to Budapest on January 17, 1945, Wallenberg was detained on suspicion of espionage and subsequently disappeared. He was later reported to have died on 17 July 1947 while imprisoned by the KGB secret police, according to Wikipedia.

Other people known as the “Righteous Among the Nations” are also included on the Memorial.  This respectful title is used by Israel to describe non-Jews who risked their lives during the Holocaust to save Jews from extermination by the Nazis.

Memorial to Raoul Gustaf Wallenberg
The Raoul Wallenberg Emlékpark
The Raoul Wallenberg Emlékpark

We find stones placed in a memorial behind the Synagogue.

Jewish Cemetery

Over two thousand Hungarian Jews who died in the ghetto from hunger and cold during the winter 1944-1945 are buried in the courtyard of the synagogue.

Jewish Cemetery

The Great Synagogue is 75 meters (246 ft) long and 27 meters (89 ft) wide.  The style of the building is Moorish but its design also features a mixture of Byzantine, Romantic and Gothic elements.

Great Synagogue

Two onion domes sit on the twin octagonal towers. A rose stained-glass window sits over the main entrance.

Great Synagogue
Great Synagogue
Great Synagogue

After we leave the somber synagogue, we head toward Váci utca in Belváros, passing some interesting street art on the way.

street art in Budapest
street art in Budapest
cafe in Budapest

We are heading toward the pleasant Belváros, which means “inner city” in Hungarian. It is the name of the central part of most Hungarian cities. Váci utca is one of the main pedestrian thoroughfares and perhaps the most famous street of central Budapest, featuring a variety of restaurants and shops catering primarily to the tourist market.  We’ll make our way down Váci utca toward the Budapest Great Market.

Belváros
Belváros
The Astoria
piano garden
Belváros
Belváros
Belváros
Váci utca
Váci utca
Váci utca

We stop at the Anna Cafe for a double chocolate muffin, orange juice and coffee.  And I wonder why I gained weight on our trip! 🙂

Anna Cafe
chocolate muffin, OJ and coffee

We come across a huge statue of Mihály Vörösmarty, a famous Hungarian poet and dramatist.  A monument by Hungarian sculptor Ede Kallós, constructed in the 1900s, stands in the square that bears his name.

statue of Mihály Vörösmarty

We take our time meandering down Váci utca.  I am tempted by many things, especially the vintage Budapest signs.

vintage Budapest signs
vintage Budapest signs

Of course, I can never resist the temptation for textiles, and I resort to buying three scarves for 6 euros each.

Me buying scarves on Váci utca
chilies and garlic on Váci utca

As we approach the Great Market, we can’t resist the urge to walk out on Elizabeth Bridge, where we have views of the busy boat traffic on the Danube, Castle Hill, and the Inner City Parish Church.  Located next to Elizabeth Bridge, it is the oldest church in Pest, founded in 1046.  Underneath the baroque façade and the Gothic walls are the remains of a 12th century Romanesque basilica (VisitBudapest.travel: Inner City Parish Church).

Inner Town Parish Church
Castle Hill from Elizabeth Bridge
Castle Hill from Elizabeth Bridge
The Danube from Elizabeth Bridge

Finally, we’re charmed by a garden of ceramic mushrooms before we head into the Great Market.

garden of mushrooms on Váci utca

At another kiosk outside the Great Market, I run into a young man looking through the scarves.  He says, “They’re all so pretty!”  I say, “Oh, you’re a big fan of scarves?” He says, “Yes, for my girlfriend!” as if to set the record straight that the scarves are not for him. 🙂

 

danube bend: visegrád & a nighttime walk through budapest

Sunday, September 24:  Tumbling off the bus at an unimpressive roadside bus stop in Visegrád, I’m sure we look baffled.  We expected to be deposited at a bus station, but instead we’re left standing at a map beside an awning-covered bench along the main road. It’s a few minutes before we’re convinced we’re in Visegrád, the name of which means in Slavic the “upper castle” or  castle of privileged position.

We start walking into town in hopes of finding some information.

shuttered building in Visegrád

Luckily a nice woman, who disembarked from the bus with some friends, notices our confusion and tries to answer Mike’s questions about a “less steep path” starting from behind the Catholic church in the town center to the citadel. Mike read about this path in Lonely Planet Hungary. The well-intentioned woman actually knows nothing about this path; she also wonders if it’s possible to walk this alleged path before nightfall.  Looking at the imposing and distant fortress perched atop the huge hill, I too wonder if it is possible.

We make our way to the Catholic Church, behind which this hike supposedly begins.

church in Visegrád

We follow some folks past the church until we find another large map and a path leading toward the castle, called Fellegvár in Hungarian — literally “cloud castle.” We had seen the 13th-century hexagonal Solomon’s Tower, once part of a lower castle used to control river traffic, low on a steep hill when our hydrofoil had stopped here this morning; the fortress is supposedly above that tower.  Now we just have to make our way up to it.

Visegrád

For a short bit, we can see the town beneath.  Before long, we’re submerged in a forest of spindly trees.

The path to Fellegvár is all uphill, relentless in its quest to deprive us of oxygen as we climb to the top.  There is not a flat stretch on the entire trail.

The only thing we see of interest on this endless path to Fellegvár is this chapel built into these pinnacle rocks.  As we’re in the forest the whole time, we don’t even have any views.

small chapel built into rocks on the path to Fellegvár

After what seems like an eternity, we come to a trail marker, but we have no idea what it means.  We’ve only walked 15P?  And we still have 25P to go?  What kind of measurement is P?  Later, we’re even more confused when another sign shows a higher number after Fellegvár , suggesting we have further to go to Fellegvár than we did before.

Later, we find out that Hungarian hiking trails show the elevation change to the peak (P).  As the trail gets steeper the closer we get to the peak, the numbers increase.

signpost to Fellegvár

All told, it takes us about 1 1/2 hours to climb to the top, where we finally see a sign for Fellegvár.  Though I started out with a jacket today, I’ve now got it stuffed into my backpack and I’m sweating in my long-sleeve knit top.

signpost to the castle

After the Mongol invasion in 1242, King Béla IV (1206-1270) and his wife had a new fortification system constructed near the one destroyed earlier. The Upper Castle, set atop a high hill, was laid out on a triangular ground-plan and had three towers at its corners.

King Charles I of Hungary made Visegrád, his hometown, the royal seat of Hungary in 1325. Around 1400, the palace was enlarged and a third curtain wall was built. The Upper Castle also served as safekeeping of the Hungarian royal insignia between the 14th century and 1526. At the end of the 15th century, the interior was renovated.

In 1544 Visegrád was occupied by the Ottoman Empire.  Apart from a short period in 1595-1605, it remained in Turkish hands until 1685. The castle was seriously damaged by the Turks and was never used afterwards (Wikipedia: Visegrád).

castle flag

One of the best things about the castle is its sweeping views of the Danube bend and the towns and landscape of Hungary.

views of the Danube from Fellegvár
view from Fellegvár
Fellegvár
Fellegvár
Fellegvár
Fellegvár

We walk through the small wax museum, which shows castle life during the time of its habitation.

wax figures at Fellegvár

The wax figures at Fellegvár seem to be enjoying themselves immensely. I wouldn’t mind joining in their festivities.

We walk all around the castle grounds trying to see every possible view.

views from Fellegvár
Fellegvár
Fellegvár
the Danube views from Fellegvár

From the Fellegvár, we see the busy boat and barge traffic on the Danube.

The Danube from Fellegvár

There is no way I want to walk back down that path to the town, so we search for a bus to take us back down.  We’re told at a little shop that the next bus won’t arrive for two hours!  The shopkeeper points us out to a van driver who will take us down for a price. He drops us at the boat dock, where we have less than a half hour to wait for the hydrofoil back to Budapest at 6:00.  We wander around near the boat dock, admiring some stately homes.

a mansion near the Visegrád boat dock
Visegrád

Finally, we see the hydrofoil approach.

hydrofoil on the Danube

As the sun goes down, we’re on the hydrofoil and on our way back to Budapest.

on the hydrofoil as the sun sets

At 6:20, we make a brief stop at Vác, where we pick up a few passengers. Vác’s episcopal palace houses a museum for Roman and medieval artifacts. The city is also known for its 18th-century arch of triumph and for its baroque city center.

Vác
Vác

By 7:00, we’re back in Budapest and can see Castle Hill all lit up.

Castle HIll at night

On the Pest side, we can see the beautiful Parliament.

Parliament at night

After disembarking, we make our way along the river and are tempted to have dinner on Spoon, a floating restaurant, but we decide to find someplace less touristy.

Spoon
Buda Castle from the Pest side

On our way back we have to be careful not to be run over by the Budapest trams, which run along a track that isn’t blocked off and is traversed by often oblivious pedestrians.

the tram in Budapest

Peeking over the boats docked along the river, we can see glimpses of Széchenyi Chain Bridge, a suspension bridge connecting Buda and Pest, the western and eastern sides of Budapest.

Buda Castle from the Pest side
Chain Bridge

We walk past the 65-meter-tall Budapest Eye, Europe’s largest mobile Ferris wheel with 42 cars and a capacity of 332 people, in Erzsébet Square.

The Budapest Eye

We pass by St. Stephens all lit up.

St. Stephens at night

It’s hard to fathom eating at the outdoor cafes in the cold night air, despite the festive colored lights strung overhead.

outdoor cafes

We find ourselves back in front of the Hungarian State Opera House, all aglow.

Hungarian State Opera House

The windows in Budapest are decked out in futuristic purple fur coats and metal studded dresses.

pretty in purple
colorful lamps

We are in search of Két Szerecsen, described in Lonely Planet Hungary as a “vaulted cellar-like bistro” with “imaginative international cuisine.”  We don’t have reservations, but they manage to find a table for us.  We fall in love with this place.  Our meal and the atmosphere are superb.

Két Szerecsen

I start out with red wine and Mike a cold beer.

We order an array of small dishes, including Moroccan pumpkin cream soup with goat cheese, pomegranate and pistachios; roasted goat cheese with green apple puree and honey walnuts; and spinach with cream and Serrano ham.  For my meal, I order chicken paprika stew, parsley dumplings, & cucumber salad with sour cream.  I love everything about this meal.

My favorite dish is the spinach with cream and Serrano ham.  After every bite, I make an “mmm” sound and smile. It is so good that I say, “I just want to lie on the floor with my legs up in the air,” thinking of a dog happily having its belly rubbed.  When Mike and I realize how bad that sounds, we burst out laughing and can’t stop.  We’re out of control! 🙂

After our fabulous day, we return to our apartment where we help ourselves to some macadamia nut ice cream we bought at the market.  Yum!

Total steps today: 22,888 (9.7 miles).

a walking tour of pest & a confusing (but fun!) visit to the széchenyi thermal bath

Saturday, September 23:  After lunch, following a Lonely Planet Hungary walking tour of Budapest, we stroll up Andrássy út, the most expensive street in Hungary. On this grand street, we find the Hungarian State Opera, and though we missed the final 3:00 English tour, we determine to return another day. Statues of opera muses adorn the first floor façade while great composers such as Verdi and Mozart line the second floor.

Hungarian State Opera House

A side street, Dalszínház utca, leads us to the New Theatre, a 1990 reconstruction of the original by Béla Latja (1909). On the façade parapet, nine gilded ceramic angels carry tablets spelling out the name of the theatre, and globes and geometric designs feature shades of early Art Deco.

New Theatre
New Theatre
Fanciful balconies
splashes of color

A block up from the Hungarian State Opera, on Nagymező Street, we find the “Broadway of Budapest,” with the Budapest Operetta (Budapesti Operettszínház) at Number 17. This musical theater with its pink facade features 500 performances per year of Hungarian operettas and contemporary musicals, as well as historical-literary musicals aimed at the younger generation, making it one of the most frequented theaters in Hungary.  I love its fancy wrought iron canopy and old world elegance.

The Budapest Operetta
The Budapest Operetta
inside the Budapest Operetta

Mike stops on a bench for a brief chat with Emmerich (or Imre) Kálmán (24 October 1882 – 30 October 1953), a Hungarian operetta composer who was one of Adolph Hitler’s favorite composers despite his Jewish origins. After Austria was annexed to Nazi Germany in 1938, he rejected Hitler’s offer to become an “honorary Aryan” and was forced to move to Paris. After his emigration, performances of his works were prohibited in Nazi Germany. He eventually settled in California in 1940, returning to Vienna from New York in 1949 before moving in 1951 to Paris, where he died.

Mike has a chat with Imre Kálmán

The eight-story Neo-Renaissance Mai Manó House houses the Hungarian House of Photography, a photo gallery, featuring world-class exhibitions.  After it was built in 1894 as a photo studio, it was the home and workplace of Manó Mai, the former imperial and royal court photographer of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Mai Manó House
Mai Manó House – photo taken by Mike Dutchak

We find the leaning statue of Miklós Radnóti, a Hungarian poet who was shot by the Nazis in 1944 and tossed into a mass grave.  When his body was found, a small notebook of poems was retrieved from his overcoat pocket.  From love poems to the wife he’d never see again to poems depicting the gruesome horrors of the Nazi regime, his small collection is a chilling masterpiece about the barbarism experienced during the Holocaust.

Miklós Radnóti, the leaning statue

Across the street from the Hungarian Operetta is Thália Színház, a performance art theatre.

Thália Színház

Our Budapest Walking Tour would have taken us ever-so-slowly to Heroes’ Square, but we are in a hurry to visit the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath before dinner.  Instead of walking, we take our Airbnb host Charlie’s advice and take the Metro 1, known in Budapest as “the underground” (“a földalatti”), the oldest line of the Budapest Metro system, built from 1894 to 1896. In 2002, it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  After many frustrating moments figuring out how to buy tickets, Mike finally figures it out and we’re on board.

Metro 1, also known as The Underground

At Heroes’ Square, we get out and look out for the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath.  We follow the signpost shown below.

Signs at Heroes’ Square

How confounded we are by the workings of the Széchenyi Thermal Bath! Of course the language barrier makes it difficult, but the impatient attitude of the ticket salesperson also puts us off to the point where we almost consider walking away. Almost.  In the end, I’m glad we persevere.  It’s quite the experience.

The daily ticket with locker usage is 5,100 Forints, about $19.55 each. Simple enough.  But, there’s the issue of the towels. We didn’t bring our own towels, so we need to rent them.  The ticket salesperson mutters something about 3,000 Forints, which is about $11.50.  Surely, the entry fee can’t be nearly $20 and the towels nearly $12?!! That seems rather outrageous. It takes us quite some time to figure out that we must pay 3,000 Forints per towel, but 2,000 of that is simply a deposit that will be returned to us when we return the towels.  We finally commit and pay our fees, heading inside the locker rooms wearing electronic wristbands to lock the lockers.

It’s confusing because there is only one locker room for both men and women.  Where on earth are we supposed to change?  By watching other people, we find there are little cabins with doors on two sides, one leading into the locker room, and one to an outer area. Mike and I change in one shared cabin.  Mike figures out that to lock both doors, we must fold down a panel on the bench seat, which in effect blocks both doors.  We change and carry our heaps of discarded clothing into the locker room, stuff them into lockers #150 and #151, double test them, and then proceed into the pool area wearing our wristbands.  We are both worried about this procedure as all our money, credit cards and passports are in our bags.  We had trouble in the Blue Lagoon in Iceland with locking the lockers and then having them accidentally open when we thought they were locked! All seems to work fine here in the end.

We walk through the indoor pools, take a short dip, then head for the outdoor pools.  The outdoor pools are not quite hot enough, in my opinion, for the cold air temperatures.  I don’t bring a phone or camera to take pictures, because for one, I don’t want my camera to get wet, and two, I’m not sure of the protocol.  However, I desperately want to take photos!

After we soak in the outdoor pools for a while, I see a few people walking around the pool decks taking pictures with their phones or iPads, so I go back inside to my locker and grab my phone, stopping to take a picture of one of the indoor baths.

inside the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

As I’m taking another picture, a man happily jumps into the middle of my picture, a hilarious photobomb!  I crack up laughing.

a photobomber at Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

Most of all, I want pictures of the outside pools.  So, I take a deep breath and head out into the cold, wearing a towel wrapped around me.  Brrrr!  I have to make this quick.

Széchenyi Medicinal Bath
Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

I love the men playing a serious chess game on the steps of the pool.

an engaging game of chess

Can you spot Mike in the pool below?

Mike in the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

Széchenyi Thermal Bath was designed by Gyozo Czigler and built in 1913. The Bath was expanded in 1927 with a public bathing department for gentlemen and ladies and a beach site. In the middle of the 1960s, further transformations took place.

Reconstructing the pools of the swimming section, completed in 1999, included equipping them with water filtering and circulation devices. The so-called fancy bath includes a whirling corridor, underwater effervescence production, neck shower and water beam back massage.  These were installed in the sitting banks, according to the Baths website.

Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

I am determined to take pictures all the way from the far end.  I have to walk past the thermal pool, alongside the 50-meter-long swimming pool, and past the activity pool. The pool at the far end has a spiral whirlpool, which makes for interesting photos. As I walk along the 50-meter swimming pool, which is only 26 degrees C (almost 80F) according to the sign, I see a few hardy souls swimming laps in it. It’s hard to imagine swimming in the cooler water, but I guess the water is still warmer than the air.

swimming pool at the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath
Széchenyi Medicinal Bath
Széchenyi Medicinal Bath
whirlpool end of the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

The panorama picture I take makes the pool look strangely distorted.

a strangely distorted panorama shot of the whirlpool end of the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

Can you spot me in the bath?  I make Mike get out of the nice warm pool to take the picture.  He isn’t too happy about standing outside in the cold.

Me at the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath
Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

After we stop in at one of the indoor pools, we return to the locker room to change.  Mike takes the towels to the drop-off to get our 4,000 Forints deposit returned.  He faces a bit more confusion as the woman asks him to give her 1,000 Forints, so she can give him a 5,000 Forint bill. He searches through all his coins to put together 1,000, struggling to decipher the values of the coins and becoming flustered in the process.

How disconcerting it is when you first arrive in a new culture and have to figure out all the nuances of language, currency, signage, direction and proper etiquette!

After we finish at the baths, we take Metro 1 back to the Opera and then, beginning on a perpendicular street, take a series of streets back to our Airbnb apartment.  We pass by a little playground park with a pretty mural on the background building.  We’ll pass by this every evening as we make our way “home.”

mural on the wall behind a city park

At the far end of the park is a more graphic and less pastoral scene.

another mural at the city park

We pass more interesting street art along the way.

Budapest Street Art
Budapest Street Art

On the block before our street, we poke our heads into a couple of restaurants and finally go inside the inviting Gettó Gulyás. They don’t have any empty tables so we happily sit at the bar.

Sitting at the bar at Gettó Gulyás

I order a tall skinny beer, while Mike gets a short squat one.

a tall beer at Gettó Gulyás

Our meal starts out well, but in the end, we’re not wholly satisfied. The goose crackling pate and red onion spread on the fresh bread are delicious, as is the beet salad.  But my mushroom stew with egg noodles (what I’d call spätzle) is not that great because of the texture of some of the mushrooms and the strange flavor of the noodles.  Mike’s beef stew is very chewy and he ends up leaving half of it behind.  We resolve not to return to this restaurant despite its cozy ambiance.

Back at Kazinczy utca, our home street, we stop in at an outdoor covered food court, Karaván Budapest, with 10 kiosks.  Here, we each get small cups of ice cream.  I order a brownie topped with vanilla ice cream and Mike gets an apple crumble. It’s a little cold for ice cream, but that doesn’t stop us!

food arcade

I know one of the benefits of staying in an apartment when traveling is that you can eat breakfast in and prepare lunches as well. We could even cook dinner in, but I enjoy eating out too much to do that!  After all, I’m on vacation, even from cooking.  So after we finish our ice cream, we walk to the nearest market to stock up on some food.

How I hate going to markets for mundane things when I’m on holiday!! The market is small and crowded and we can’t figure out what is what.  We finally buy yogurt, granola, cheese, crackers, bread, bananas (which I don’t care for unless they’re in a smoothie but Mike can’t seem to live without), and beers so, as Mike says, “we can stop by the apartment and enjoy afternoon beers before going out for dinner.”  It’s way too much food, and it turns out we never even have time to drink the beers as we usually grab dinner out in the areas where we’re sightseeing, thus never returning to the apartment first.  At the end of our shopping spree, we find that people have brought their own bags and the market doesn’t provide bags!  We stuff all our groceries into our backpacks and resolve to bring bags with us on our next shopping trip.

We have a great first day in Budapest, even though we pushed ourselves to go all day on less than an hour’s sleep the night before, and despite the gloomy weather.  My favorite experiences were enjoying the views from St. Stephen’s Basilica and dipping into the pools at the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath.

Total steps today: 13,840 (5.87 miles). 🙂