Wednesday, July 24: I return to Lisbon from Cascais in the late afternoon and take a long walk from the train station up an endless hill to Bairro Alto. Here I stumble upon my last sighting of pastel de nata. Oh how I will miss this treat when I leave Portugal tomorrow morning.
I’ll miss the mosaic cobbled walkways of the city.
And the dramatic statues in serene parks.
I drop into the Basilica dos Martires, dedicated to the martyrs who participated in the 1147 reconquest of Lisbon from the Moors. This beautiful Baroque church was built after the 1755 earthquake on the site of another where the first baptism after the reconquest took place. It was completed in 1784. Inside is a marble altar and a beautifully painted ceiling, as well as an organ that’s considered one of the best in the country (LisbonLux: Basilica dos Martires).
I think the ceiling in this church is one of the most beautiful I have seen during my trip.
I’ll miss Portugal’s amazing architecture and Lisbon’s colorful buildings and street lamps.
I also drop into the skeletal Convento do Carmo; all that remains after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake and a later violent fire are its cracked pillars and soaring arches, reaching longingly into the heavens.
The Carmo Archeological Museum keeps and exhibits important pieces of sculpture from the Carmo monastery and church, as well as from many other ancient buildings, such as monastic houses. It also holds works from prehistoric times until the present day.
I continue heading up the hill past inviting cafes and the Teatro da Trinidad.
And I head back to my favorite spot in Lisbon, LOSTin, for a beer and some parting views of the city.
After going back to my hotel to rest a bit, I venture out one last time to have some dinner. I pass more Lisbon balconies, which I wistfully wish were mine.
And I surprise myself by stopping into a sushi place that has been bustling every time I’ve passed it by. The food is delicious, even though as a parting Lisbon experience, it’s not exactly Portuguese food. 🙂
Finally, I return to my hotel, where I request an early morning wake-up call for my flight back home to the USA. 😦
Tuesday, July 23: Tonight I stroll not far from my hotel in Bairro Alto to Café LUSO, a Fado House established in 1927.
In the 1930s, the old cellars and stables of the Palace Brito Freire, a 17th century manor house that endured the devastating earthquake of 1755, were refurbished into a show room with restaurant; its arched vaults offer unique acoustics. From the first decades of the 20th century, Café LUSO reached such notoriety that it was known as the “Cathedral of Fado”.
The show, running between 8.30 and 10 PM, is a display of regional folk dances and singing alternating with fado singers and players. At the end of the show, all together, they all sing the Café LUSO hymn.
The Folklore group wears real costumes that typify the various regions of Portugal.
Fado arrived in Lisbon by way of Portuguese navigators and other travelers. Despite the many influences on Fado, as a result of the Portuguese diaspora, it was clearly identified since the 19th century as a genuine national song.
The voice is accompanied by the Portuguese guitar and viola, but also other instruments such as contrabass, piano, bass and cello.
Black is prevalent on the apparel, feminine and masculine; the use of black clothes visually emphasizes the sadness and nostalgia, overwhelming feelings in traditional fado. The female singer often uses a shawl that composes the figure with meaning; this ornament can be dashing and rich.
Fado is a musical genre that can only be explained as an old lament over the threats that all of us go through life, with episodes that can be painful and explain our mortality.
It covers life, love or disdain, graces or disgraces, loss and “saudade”, the very Portuguese word synonymous with longing and missing.
Obviously, Fado does not have one single style of interpretation.
I love the evening here at Café LUSO, even though it is a tourist place, bursting with tables of Chinese people. I am a little disappointed in the ratio of folklore dances to fado; it seems the folklore dances make up the majority of the show, with only a few soulful fado songs.
The menu is very limited and nothing special at all. And of course it’s expensive. Oh well, maybe next time I go to Lisbon, I can find a small, off-the-beaten track fado house, where the locals go.
For more information, check out: Café LUSO
Tuesday, July 23: While exploring Bairro Alto, I come across the Igreja de São Roque (Church of Saint Roch), the earliest Jesuit church in the Portuguese world, and one of the first Jesuit churches anywhere. When built in the 16th century it was the first Jesuit church designed in the “auditorium-church” style specifically for preaching.
It served as the Society’s home church in Portugal for over 200 years, before the Jesuits were expelled. After the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake, the church, which survived the earthquake relatively unscathed, was given to the Charity House of Lisbon to replace their church and headquarters which had been destroyed. It remains a part of the Santa Casa today, one of its many heritage buildings (Igreja de São Roque).
After a wave of the plague swept over Lisbon in 1505, the King Manuel I (1495-1521) asked the Republic of Venice for a relic of Saint Roch, whose miracles, which helped the victims of the plague, were popular in southern Europe. In 1506, the construction of a shrine to host the relic was started in a heath outside the Fernadine wall. The churchyard of this shrine was used as a cemetery for the victims of the plague. A brotherhood was created and made responsible for maintaining devotion to the Saint and for preserving the shrine. The shrine was later demolished to build the Church of São Roque. The original relic is still preserved.
Igreja de São Roque contains a number of chapels, most in the Baroque style of the early 17th century. The most notable chapel is the 18th-century Chapel of St. John the Baptist (Capela de São João Baptista), constructed in Rome of many precious stones and disassembled, shipped and reconstructed in São Roque; at the time it was reportedly the most expensive chapel in Europe.
The chapel came about through the efforts of King Joao V (1707-1750), who promoted a vast program of grand architectural projects and works of art to show the image of a renewed and refined Portuguese state, which was not behind the main European powers of the time in any way.
The Museu de São Roque is in the space of the old Professed House of the Society of Jesus, adjoined to the Church. It holds the important collection of Italian art which was the origin of the Chapel of Saint John’s creation. In the 1930s, the exhibit expanded to include a wider variety of pieces.
Tuesday, July 23: I’m not a big party girl while I’m on holiday, but if I were, Lisbon’s Bairro Alto would be the place to play. The neighborhood is a short walk from my hotel, and this afternoon I explore its graffiti-splashed streets during the sleepy daylight hours.
This evening at 8:00, I’ll walk back to this part of the neighborhood to attend a fado performance at Luso.
I stop for a late lunch at what has quickly become my favorite lunch spot, LOSTin, right across the street from my hotel, with grand views of Lisbon. I order a sandwich and enjoy the pink, green and royal blue wicker chairs shaded by Indian patchwork umbrellas. This Esplanada Bar is an Indian snack-like restaurant that serves meals like toasts, wraps and sandwiches, but with an Indian flavor.
I order a ham and cheese sandwich, but it sounds a lot more fancy than that on the menu.
After lunch, I continue to explore the neighborhood, passing by the Elevador da Gloria once again.
Monday, July 22: After leaving Castelo de São Jorge, I head out into the charming Alfama neighborhood surrounding the castle. It’s a lovely little warren of cobbled streets where you just want to wander around forever. Entrancing. Bewitching. Beguiling. Utterly captivating. 🙂
I then meander my way to the spot close to where the Lisbon Sightseeing Bus dropped me off; here I have some mediocre lunch at an outdoor cafe. I then decide to take the iconic Vintage Tram 28 down the hill all the way to the end of the line.
At the end of the line, all passengers are told to disembark; we have to get on another tram to go back up the hill of Alfama. We wait a while in the new tram until it climbs back up the steep hill. We pass other colorful trams along the way.
I dip into a church along the way, but I’m not sure what this one is called.
And then I walk down the narrow street, where trams are going up and down, until I reach a pedestrian shopping street.
At this pedestrian street, I stop for a little lunch and then I make my way, walking, back up the hill. Walking in Lisbon is not easy as it has so many steep hills! I pass some pretty shops and beautiful buildings.
I make my way further up the hill to The Patriarchal Cathedral of St. Mary Major, also known as Sé de Lisboa or simply Lisbon Cathedral. The oldest church in the city is the see of the Archdiocese of Lisbon. Since the beginning of the construction of the cathedral, in the year 1147, the building has been modified several times and survived many earthquakes. It is nowadays a mix of different architectural styles (Wikipedia: Lisbon Cathedral).
And then I find a cute little cafe where I decide it’s about time for a glass of wine.
I ask the owners if they’ll take a picture of me in front of the colorful and paint-chipped doors. It looks a little strange because the door is either really small, or I’m really big!
I ask the owner where I can find Clube de Fado, because I’ve heard it’s around this area and I’d like to make a reservation to see some Fado and have dinner for tomorrow night. He tells me it’s behind the Sé de Lisboa, whence I just came, so, guess what, I get to walk back down the hill I just came up.
I finally find the Clube de Fado, and I pop inside to reserve a spot for tomorrow night. After this, I make my way back UP the hill, passing by the Igreja de Santiago and other interesting buildings.
Finally, I end up right back where I started from this morning, at the Miradouro of Santa Luzia, where I get more astounding views of Lisbon and the Rio Tejo.
Here, I hop back on the Hop On Hop Off bus to head back to my hotel, where I need to get off of my feet for a while. On the bus, we pass hundreds of colorful buildings.
I get dropped off at the bottom of the hill again, and have to make my way back up Calcada de Gloria. This time I decide to take the Elevador da Gloria up. I just don’t think I can walk up any more hills today!
Of course at the top of the hill, I must stop at Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara for another view of the city and a cold beer at the little cafe.
Finally, I’m at the top of Bairro Alto where my hotel, Pensão Londres, sits pretty in green.
I am so happy to relax in my room for a while before I go out to have some dinner. My feet and legs are killing me from walking up and down Lisbon’s hills. This time, I go to LOSTin, an Esplanada Bar. It is an Indian snack-like restaurant that serves meals like toasts, wraps and sandwiches, but with an Indian flavor. The best thing about LOSTin is its gorgeous view over downtown and Lisbon castle; the cafe sits under the shade of beautiful trees with Indian umbrellas and cushions and pink and green wicker chairs. It’s a perfect place from the bustle of the city. Plus, it’s right across the street from Pensão Londres, which means I don’t have to walk far. 🙂
My dinner is Gratinado de Gorgonzola, which of course is accompanied by a glass of red wine; though it doesn’t look that enticing from the picture, I can guarantee it’s delicious.
I go back to my room, feeling like I definitely got the most out of my day. I loved all the views of the beautiful old city of Lisbon, and its charming and labyrinthine neighborhood of Alfama.
Monday, July 22: This morning, I wake up with a full day in Lisbon ahead of me. The hotel offers a lovely brunch, which I eat while working on my blog and checking emails. Then I head down the streets of Bairro Alto until I come to the lovely fountain at Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara. This little park sits at the top of a hill offering beautiful views of Lisbon all the way to the Rio Tejo. I pass the park any time I go out into Lisbon or return to my hotel. So it becomes quite a familiar sight during my stay.
Every time I get to the steep street of Calcada da Gloria, on which the Elevador da Gloria runs, the Elevador seems to be taking a long leisurely snooze. It’s just sitting there waiting, I guess, until enough passengers decide to board, at which time it makes its way down the hill to Praca dos Restauradores. I’m never patient enough to wait for it and decide to simply walk down the hill myself. I guess if it was the other way around, and I had to walk UP every time, I’d wait for the Elevador no matter how long it took. On the wall bordering the street, I’m always startled by this crazy street painting.
Today I plan to take the green (Castle) line on the Lisbon Sightseeing Hop On Hop Off bus, heading for Alfama.
The National Theatre D. Maria II, or Teatro Nacional D. Maria II, is a historical theater; it is one of the most prestigious Portuguese venues and is in Rossio square, in the center of the city.
In Rossio Square sits one of the most noticeable tourist landmarks, The Hard Rock Cafe.
On the bus ride up to Alfama, I admire Lisbon’s laundry, hung out on balconies to dry.
I also pass this Porto Wine sign, which reminds me of Jo in Tavira, known by the alias of restless jo.
Finally the bus drops us at Miradouro of Santa Luzia, where there is a beautiful panoramic view of Lisbon at the top of Alfama.
Alfama is the oldest district of Lisbon, spreading on the slope between the Castle of Lisbon and the Rio Tejo. Its name comes from the Arabic Al-hamma, meaning fountains or baths. It includes the freguesias (parishes) of São Miguel, Santo Estêvão, São Vicente de Fora and part of two streets of Freguesia da Sé: Rua do Barão and Rua São João da Praça. It contains many important historical attractions, with many Fado bars and restaurants.
Overlooking the Alfama is the mediaeval Castle of São Jorge, royal residence until the early 16th century and now offering the best views of the city. In the slopes of Alfama there are other terraces (miradouros) from which to see the city, like the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, near the church of the same name and over remnants of the Moorish city walls, and the Miradouro das Portas do Sol (Gates of the Sun) (Wikipedia: Alfama).
When I finally tear myself away from the viewpoint, I start walking downhill without having any idea what I’m searching for.
At some point midway down the hill, I see a sign for Castle of São Jorge, and as I approach it, I find this warning about pickpockets.
I then head into the Castle of São Jorge, where I see more amazing views of the red rooftops of Lisboa and the Tejo River.
Sunday, July 21: This Sunday morning, Cafe Piela’s in Sintra is as closed as it was Saturday afternoon. I’m disappointed because I have been convinced, by a taxi-driver I spoke with outside of Quinta de Regaleira, to take a taxi door-to-door from Sintra to my hotel in Lisbon. I don’t know how I will find such a taxi on this quiet Sunday morning without Manuel here to call someone. I get ready in a leisurely fashion, packing up my bags and dragging my feet because, after all, my heart is firmly anchored here in Sintra.
I walk down Sintra’s pedestrian street in search of breakfast and, finding a bustling cafe, I order an omelet and coffee inside where it’s warm. It’s quite chilly this morning, just as it was last night. By the time I finish and return to Cafe Piela’s, at least Anna Maria, the lady in charge of the Hospederia, is there. She doesn’t speak great English, but she understands enough to call Manuel on his day off and ask him if he knows a dependable and honest taxi driver. He does and he arranges for the driver to meet me in front of Piela’s at 10:30. Thank goodness for Manuel!
Manuel told me yesterday morning that it should cost me about 25 euros to take a taxi to Lisbon, so I get a little anxious as we are still on the highway when the meter passes the 25 euro mark. It ends up costing me 35 euros, but at least I’m dropped right at the door of my hotel, Pensão Londres.
The Pensão Londres sits on one of the seven hills of Lisbon, more specifically on the seventh hill, in the famous Bairro Alto, an area of historical and architectural interest. It’s surrounded by beautiful gardens, homey restaurants, markets and a vibrant nightlife.
I’m quite pleased with my room, with its warm colors, high ceilings and friendly staff.
After settling in a bit, I head out to explore Lisbon, making a stop at the Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara for a panoramic view of Lisbon. I’ve been so busy on my trip that I still haven’t even taken time to read the Lisbon guidebook, and I feel more than a little baffled by what I’m supposed to see here. I really have no idea where to go or what to look for. The only thing I’ve heard of is the hilly and atmospheric Alfama neighborhood, but I want to save that for a full day. It’s noon by the time I arrive in Lisbon, so why venture there today when I have three full days ahead?
Just past the Miradouro is a very steep street going down to Praca dos Restauradores and Rossio, where I’ve been told lies the Tourist Information Office. The vintage Elevador da Gloria sits patiently at the top, awaiting passengers. I decide I don’t want to wait, so I just walk down the hill where I see some vivid street art on the walls.
The receptionist at Pensão Londres has drawn me a map to the Tourist Information Office, but I wander up and down the streets in Rossio, in just the spot where the map indicates, and there is no TI to be found. In my wanderings, I pass many beckoning cafes and pop inside Igreja da Conceicao Velha to check out the church. As it’s Sunday morning, a service is in progress, so I sit down in a back pew for a bit to observe.
When I finally find the Tourist Information Office, one street over from where my hand-drawn map has indicated, I decide I will buy the two-day pass on the Lisbon Sightseeing Hop On Hop Off bus. There are three lines on this bus, and today I decide to take the red line, or the Belém line. This is an hour and 50 minute line that goes along the coast of Lisbon. Belém translates as Bethlehem, but it’s really all about the nautical adventures and riches of the 15th and 16th centuries, when Vasco da Gama’s discovery of a sea route to India started the age of empires (Lonely Planet Portugal).
The bus makes a stop at the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, which houses the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia in its West Wing. I decide not to hop off, figuring I can come back another day. The monastery is one of the most prominent monuments of Manueline-style architecture (Portuguese late-Gothic) in Lisbon, classified in 1983 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the nearby Tower of Belém. It turns out I never make it back here, but I figure I have seen so many monasteries, cathedrals and museums at this point, that missing one won’t kill me.
I do, however, hop off at the Tower of Belém, a fortified tower of the Portuguese Manueline-style built in the early 16th century. It played a significant role in the Portuguese maritime discoveries of the era of the Age of Discoveries. The tower was commissioned by King John II to be part of a defense system at the mouth of the Rio Tejo and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. The structure was built from limestone and is composed of a bastion and a four-story tower (Wikipedia: Belém Tower).
I climb a narrow spiral staircase up to the tower, where I can see the Rio Tejo, a marina, and the 25 de Abril Bridge, a suspension bridge connecting Lisbon to Almada on the south bank of the river. It was inaugurated on August 6, 1966 and a train platform was added in 1999. Because it is a suspension bridge and has similar coloring, it is often compared to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, USA (Wikipedia: 25 de Abril Bridge).
I hop back on the bus, where we pass by Campo Pequeno, Lisbon’s bullfighting ring, built between 1890 and 1892. The design was inspired by the bullring of Madrid, later demolished. The style is the neo-Mudejar, the Romantic style inspired by the old Arab architecture from Iberia. After an extensive renovation, it re-opened as a multi-event venue in 2006, designed to be used for various events apart from bull-fighting. It hosts a range of live acts and has seen many famous bands perform there. It includes an underground shopping center, restaurants and a parking lot (Wikipedia: Campo Pequeno bullring).
I complete the entire loop of the red line, and end up back in Rossio, where I stop at an outdoor cafe for a beer and a snack.
I eat some steamed prawns but it isn’t quite enough.
So I order a bread and egg soup, which is quite bland and heavy. I barely eat any of it because it’s simply not very good.
I climb back up the steep hill to Bairro Alto and return to Pensão Londres, where I relax for a while and work on my blog. I stay in for quite a long time, and after dark, I head out to Tapas Bar 52, which is directly across the street from the hotel.
The bustling atmosphere in Tapas Bar 52 is accompanied by the Doors singing “Riders on the Storm.” Photographs from Planet of the Apes, John Travolta doing his strut in Saturday Night Fever, Humphrey Bogart, and Citizen Kane crowd every inch of wall space. One sign on the wall admonishes patrons to: “Eat Less, Lose Weight, Don’t Drink, Die Anyway.”
On my table is a basket of bread, a cheese spread and a plate of proscuitto. I think how nice it is that the restaurant provides all this food before I even order. As I nibble on these tasty appetizers, I drink a glass of red wine and then place an order for Tortilha asparagus and Andalus mussels.
A big-bellied glum-looking bald man wearing what looks like a black karate outfit with too-short pants struts around acting like he owns the place. He is obviously the owner or the manager. He gives off a tough-guy aura. I decide he doesn’t look like a very friendly sort.
In the meantime, two girls at an adjacent table are complaining that they’ve been waiting a long time for their food. The waitress tells them that the restaurant is busy and they’ll get served when they get served. These girls have been here longer than I have, and I’ve already eaten most of my meal. The server’s attitude is insolent and downright rude.
When I get my bill, I’m shocked to discover it’s 27 euros. Most of my meals in Spain and Portugal have been 10-15 euros, including a glass of wine. When I look at the itemization on the bill, I find I have been charged for the bread, the cheese spread, and the proscuitto (5 euros for that alone), things I didn’t order but were on the table when I sat down. I figured since I didn’t order them, they were free, much like bread or olives are free at many restaurants. I don’t think it’s fair play to put food in front of you that you don’t order and then charge you for it!
When I go back to the hotel desk to pick up my key, I say to the receptionist, “I certainly don’t recommend that restaurant across the street, Tapas Bar 52.” He tells me, “If you had asked me, I would have never recommended it either. Try out Tapas Bar 28 next time. You’ll love it!” And then he proceeds to give me directions.
It’s the end of my first day in Lisbon, and I feel as lost as I did when I first arrived. I miss Sintra and wish I had stayed there another day. 🙂