Monday, August 12: Ailsa’s Travel Theme (Where’s my backpack?) for this week is architecture. I’ve been having a bit of a hard time with this one because it’s such a broad theme. As a matter of fact, I would say my entire trip through Spain and Portugal this summer was about the architecture (and the food!), so you could look at my entire travelogue to see some amazing architecture. For this challenge, I’m going to limit myself to three places, four photos. These are some of my favorites, but are of course not all-inclusive!
Cheri Lucas of WordPress writes: This week, photographer Jeff Sinon talked about his process of finding the best shot. Before taking a picture, he studies his scene — looking at a shot horizontally (as a landscape) and vertically (as a portrait). With this honed, critical eye, he decides what orientation works best for his photograph.
For this challenge, capture two images — a horizontal and a vertical version — of the same scene or subject. There are no concrete “rules” here, but a) it should be evident that both shots are of the same place/location or person/thing, and b) your photographs should ideally have been taken during the same shoot.
Here are mine from Europe, from the beautiful town of Sintra in Portugal, one of my favorite places so far in the world! The first set is the Chapel at Quinta da Regaleira.
Click on any of the photos for a larger view and mini-slideshow.
Chapel at Quinta da Regaleira
Chapel at Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra
Here are two shots inside the Main House at Quinta da Regaleira. This is from the Hunting Room, where the theme of the “cycle of life” is evident throughout the room.
the Hunting Room
door in the Hunting Room in the Main House of Quinta da Regaleira
Finally, also in Sintra, is the Palace of Monserrate.
Saturday, July 20: When I arrive at the Park of Monserrate, I’m hungry so I stop for a little pastel denata before I continue to explore the grounds of the Palace. Oh how I love that pastel de nata! I’m really trying to make sure I get my fill of it before I leave Portugal.
I walk along the Scented Path, bordered by pergolas with wisteria and jasmine, and pass by the Arch of India, which is missing its upper half. It was purchased by Francis Cook and represented spoils of the war resulting from the unsuccessful revolt of Indian maharajahs in 1857.
Monserrate Palace was originally commissioned by Gerard de Visme, an English merchant holding the concession to import Brazilian teak. The builder was William Beckford (1760-1844), writer, novelist, art critic and eccentric builder, and known as the wealthiest young Englishman of his time.
Monserrate Palace was transformed in 1856 into a summer residence for the Francis Cook family by the British architect James T. Knowles. Raised on the ruins of the neo-Gothic mansion built by Gerard de Visme in 1790, it represents 19th century eclecticism.
Francis Cook (1817-1901) was an English textile millionaire and owner of one of the greatest private art collections in Britain. He conceived the present Romantic Palace and Gardens as his family summer residence.
The setting of this palace is simply stunning.
The Gallery is a corridor connecting the three towers of the Palace. The succession of arches and columns creates great depth.
The Main Hall dome is a wooden structure decorated with plasterwork.
Some of the rooms are used to exhibit colorful paintings.
I love the stairway and the elaborately carved arches and columns throughout the Palace.
The Library walls are entirely covered by walnut bookshelves. The door, also in walnut, is decorated in high relief.
The Lawn, the first lawn planted in Portugal, was notable for its size and unusual cambered surface which required an imaginative irrigation system.
I always love these huge sprawling Ficus trees.
At the bottom of the lawn is a lovely water garden. All around, people are sitting or lying on blankets enjoying picnics.
The Mexican garden is the hottest and driest part of the garden and holds collections of palms, yuccas, nolinas, agaves, and cycads. It was fully restored in 2010.
An artificial waterfall attributed to William Beckford, called Beckford’s Waterfall, flows into this pond.
After walking all over Qinta da Regaleira’s gardens this morning, and walking all over Monserrate this afternoon, I go back to my room to find the cafe is now closed for Saturday night and all of Sunday. I guess I won’t see Manuel and Leonor again. 😦 I sit on the patio outside my room, but it gets quite cold so I go back inside and lie down for a bit.
Later I go out for dinner at another of Manuel’s local recommendations, Restaurante Sopa da Avo. The woman who runs the restaurant is really kind, and as I seem to be the only patron at first, she gives me her undivided attention. She even speaks some English.
I order Leeks a Bras, described on the menu as “leeks mixed with tiny French fries and involved in scrambled eggs.” I really like how the leeks are “involved” with the scrambled eggs. This dish is SUPERB!!! I savor every bite and really don’t want this meal to end!
When the owner sees how much I’m enjoying the meal, she brings me the recipe: Mix chopped onion with olive oil and milk. Then add the leeks and let cook. Add Gasket potatoes (tiny shreds of potato fries, much like potato chips, but in tiny sticks, from a cellophane bag) and eggs with parsley. I don’t know if I’ve ever seen these kinds of potatoes in the USA, but I’m going to be on the lookout for them so I can try to make this dish!
I return to Cafe Piela’s in the biting wind (it sure gets cold at night here in Sintra!) and get comfortable and warm for this, my last night in Sintra. I’m going to be really sad to leave here. 😦
Saturday, July 20: This morning I have another leisurely breakfast in Cafe Piela’s, where I take a picture of Manuel and Leonor, the owners of the Hospedaria. I also catch a man having his cup of coffee standing at the glass pastry case.
Then I take a different Scotturb bus to Quinta da Regaleira, an estate located near Sintra-Vila and classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO within the “Cultural Landscape of Sintra.” It has a Romantic palace and chapel, and a luxurious park featuring lakes, grottoes, wells, benches, towers, fountains, and sculptures. The palace is also known as “Palace of Monteiro the Millionaire”, from the nickname of its first owner, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro.
Quinta da Regaleira was the summer residence of the Carvalho Monteiro family built in the neo-Manueline style.
The Chapel was also built in the Manueline style. Its icons revolve around scenes from the Life of Mary and the Life of Christ. There are also symbols from the Templar Order and its successor in Portugal, the Order of Christ. The crypt has a subterranean passage that links it with the Main House.
The celebrated capitalist Carvalho Monteiro was of Portuguese descent but was born in Rio de Janeiro, at a time when Brazil was governed by an Emperor. He graduated in law from the University of Coimbra, was a distinguished bibliophile, collector and philanthropist. With his scientific and cultured mind, he determined the mysterious iconographical program for Regaleira, his residence in Sintra.
The Quinta da Regaleira was the last commission in Portugal of Italian architect Luigi Manini. He devoted 14 years of his life to the palace, until he returned to Italy in 1912.
Inside the Main House is the Hunting Room, which is really a dining room. It is overwhelmed by the massive fireplace that supports the statue of a woodsman. The mantelpiece depicts wonderfully carved hunting scenes. The theme of the “cycle of life” is evident throughout the room from the Venetian mosaic floor to the ceiling carvings.
Drawing of door knocker
I climb up to the Panoramic Terrace, surrounded by eight profusely decorated finials featuring naturalistic and fantastic figures. From here I can see a sweeping view of the extensive gardens.
Outside the house, I follow the long winding paths through the gardens. The garden is designed as an image of the Cosmos, revealed through a series of magic and mysterious places. References to mythology abound: Olympus, Virgil, Dante, Milton and Camoes. Leda’s Grotto is one of the first places I encounter.
I climb up a narrow circular staircase to Regaleira Tower, where I can see a view of Sintra-Vila.
Near the Lake of the Waterfall, I find the Portal of the Guardians, a dramatic structure with twin towers flanking a central pavilion. Under the central pavilion is one of the entrance ways to the Initiatic Well, a “subterranean tower” that sinks some 27 meters into the earth, made accessible by a monumental spiral stairway. It is symbolic of the connection between Heaven and Earth. Since I don’t like closed dark spaces, I don’t go inside here!
These gardens go on forever! It takes me a long while, but I finally make it down to the Labyrinthic Grotto, which is very peaceful and lovely, though the photos don’t do it justice.
At the bottom of the hill, I come to the Promenade of the Gods, an avenue that links the Pisoes Loggia to the Main House, with statues of classical gods: Fortune, Orpheus, Venus, Flora, Ceres, Pan, Dionysus, Volcan and Hermes.
It’s taken me about two-three hours to make my way through Quinta da Regaleira, and it’s been truly lovely and peaceful. Besides that, the weather continues to be perfect in Sintra.
I leave the palace and wait outside about a half hour for the next Scotturb bus to Monserrate Palace. While waiting I have a long conversation with an English-speaking taxi driver who tells me that when I go to Lisbon, I should take a taxi door-to-door instead of hauling my suitcase on the train. He tells me it will only cost 25 euros or so. Hmmm. Now he’s put a bug in my ear, and I may have to consider that tomorrow when I leave for Lisbon. 🙂
Friday, July 19: After exploring the Castelo dos Mouros and the Palácio Nacional da Pena, I take the Scotturb bus back into Sintra-Vila. Since I have so few opportunities to get pictures of myself on my holiday, I bought one of those pictures taken by a photographer at Palácio Nacional da Pena. It’s an 8×11″ picture, and quite large to carry, so I decide I’ll return to Piela’s to drop off the picture, eat some lunch and maybe visit the Friday market that Manuel told me about this morning.
Right across from the train station is a little cafe with outdoor tables; there I order a codfish croquette and a shrimp & cheese croquette and sit outdoors to eat. It’s still lovely weather in Sintra and I love being outdoors as much as possible.
After lunch, I walk down the pedestrian walk toward Piela’s and I come across a little market with these enticing figs. I buy four of them and take them back to my room.
By the time I get back to Piela’s, it’s close to 2:30, and Manuel tells me that the Friday market is over. I’m disappointed that I missed it! Oh well, what can be done? I drop the picture in my room, eat a couple of my figs, and head back out to Sintra-Vila to see the Palácio Nacional de Sintra. Below, you can see the two conical chimneys, one of which is ugly gray concrete. I thought this was some kind of factory when I first arrived in Sintra.
It is the best preserved medieval Royal Palace in Portugal, having been inhabited more or less continuously at least from the early 15th up to the late 19th century. It is an important tourist attraction and is designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
According to Lonely Planet Portugal, the palace had Moorish origins; it later was expanded by Dom Dinis (1261-1325), enlarged by King John I in the 15th century (when the kitchens were built), then given a Manueline twist by Manuel I in the following century.
There are some interesting sculptures along the Alameda Volte do Duche on the way to Sintra-Vila.
Even though the Palácio Nacional de Sintra isn’t much to look at from the outside, because of renovations and scaffolding hugging the building, and because of those ugly chimneys, it’s lovely inside. The interior is a mixture of Moorish and Manueline styles, with 15th- and 16th-century geometric azulejos that figure among Portugal’s oldest.
The earliest azulejos in the 15th century were imported from Seville by king Manuel I after a visit to that town in 1503. They were glazed in a single colour and decorated with geometric patterns. They were applied on walls and used for paving floors. The Portuguese adopted the Moorish tradition of horror vacui (‘fear of empty spaces’) and covered the walls completely with azulejos.
The octagonal Sala dos Cisnes (Swan Room) is adorned with frescoes of 27 gold-collared swans.
The Sala das Pegas (the Magpie Room) is painted with magpies on the ceiling. This relates to a story that the king John I was caught in the act of kissing a lady-in-waiting by his queen Philippa of Lancaster. To put a stop to all the gossip, he had the room decorated with as many magpies as there were women at the court.
Another highlight of the Palace is the Galleon Room.
Blazon’s Hall is all ablaze with colorful tiles from the walls to the ceiling.
The earliest surviving part of the castle is the Royal Chapel, possibly built during the reign of King Dinis I in the early 14th century.
Inside the huge kitchen, I can look up into the conical chimneys, but they don’t make for very interesting pictures.
King Manuel ordered the Manueline Hall’s construction.
On the steps of the palace, I can see the pretty town of Sintra-Vila and the Castelo dos Mouros on the hill above.
After exploring the palace, walking around Sintra-Vila, stopping in the central square for a sparkling water and buying a couple of scarves at a little shop, I walk back up to Piela’s, where, once again, I admire the colorful manor houses. At the Cafe, I sit with my computer and sip on a couple of beers while I chat on Skype with my friend Jayne in California and work on my blog. Again, I love how people drop into the cafe, quickly down a beer at the glass pastry case, and then make a quick exit.
Manuel has recommended two restaurants in town that are frequented by locals. He says they’re very good, have vegetarian options and are cheaper than the touristy places in Sintra-Vila. I seek out one of his recommended places tonight for dinner: Culto da Tasca. As I walk to the restaurant, a chilly wind cuts through my lightweight clothing to my bones. The sky is heavy with smudges of charcoal; it looks like a storm is brewing. Inside the restaurant, it’s homey and warm, a welcome reprieve from the cold! The place is brimming with lively Portuguese families.
I order cream with prawns, bacon & mushrooms, accompanied by rice and fries and a glass of wine. Bread and olives are included, all for 11.20 euros. This price for all that is unheard of in these parts! And it is simply delicious. 🙂
I return to Cafe Piela’s, where I hunker in for the night, while a cold wind blows outside my window.
Friday, July 19: After visiting the Moorish Castle, I take the Scotturb bus to visit the Palácio Nacional da Pena, or the Pena National Palace, a 19th-century Romanticist palace that stands on a hilltop adjacent to the Moorish Castle. On a clear day it can be easily seen from the metropolitan area of Lisbon, rising up like some fantasy from a thickly wooded, and sometimes mist-enshrouded, peak.
Yet another stunning place in Sintra!
Pena National Palace is a fairy tale-like national monument, with a bewildering array of onion domes, stone snakes, Moorish keyhole gates and arches, colorful tile walls, and crenellated towers in pinks and lemons. The Pena Palace has a profusion of styles in line with the exotic taste of Romanticism. The intentional mixture of eclectic styles includes the Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo-Renaissance.
The history of Pena National Palace began in the Middle Ages when a chapel was built here, Our Lady of Pena, after an apparition of the Virgin Mary.
In 1493, King John II and his wife Queen Leonor visited the site to fulfill a vow. His successor, King Manuel I, who was also fond of the site, built a monastery here donated to the Order of Saint Jerome. It was a quiet meditative place housing no more than 18 monks. In the 18th century, it was damaged by lightning and then was mostly reduced to ruins during The Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. In the mid-19th century, King Ferdinand II fell in love with the site, and decided to build a summer palace here for the Portuguese Royal Family. Construction took place from 1842-1854.
In 1889, it was bought by the Portuguese state and has since become a major tourist attraction. Over time the colors of the red and yellow façades faded, and for many years the palace was visually identified as being entirely gray. By the end of the 20th century the palace was repainted and the original colors restored, much to the dismay of many Portuguese who were not aware that the palace had once displayed such chromatic variety.
In 1995, the palace and the rest of the Cultural Landscape of Sintra were classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It’s also one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. Of these Seven Wonders, the only other one I see while in Portugal is Belém Tower in Lisbon.
Friday, July 19: This morning I must fortify myself for a big day of castle-hopping through Sintra with a coffee and the decadent Portuguese egg tart pastry, pastel de nata, downstairs at Café Piela’s. Today’s weather is superb, cool and crisp with cornflower blue skies overhead. The owner of the café, Manuel, whose English is excellent, is chipper and welcoming and makes me feel like I’m eating breakfast at home. It’s so lovely when traveling alone to have someone who makes you feel like you’re a part of the family, and not some pariah. 🙂
I walk straightaway to the bus station where I catch the Scotturb Pena Sightseeing circular route bus (#434) to Castelo dos Mouros.
It’s quite a long walk through a fern and moss-filled forest up to the Castelo dos Mouros, or the Moorish Castle.
When I reach the castle, and climb up on the ramparts, I am stunned by the view. This is the second heart-stopping experience I have on my journey, the first being my initial encounter with the Mezquita in Cordoba (andalucía: córdoba’s stunning mezquita). I know it sounds corny, but I feel a lump in my throat and actually feel like I’m going to cry! It is so majestic and such a gorgeous panorama that it’s unbelievable that a place such as this actually exists. There’s a wonderful breeze and the air is crisp and I can just imagine the Moors enjoying their mountaintop view over their kingdom all those centuries ago.
The castle is an irregularly planned military outpost that follows a 450-meter perimeter on top of a mountainous cliff. It consists of a double line of military walls that meanders over the granite terrain of the promontory. Its place on the hilltop, surrounded by and including the natural and exotic vegetation, accentuates the romantic character of the place (Wikipedia: Castle of the Moors (Sintra)).
From the castle walls, I can see Sintra-Vila below with the chimneys of the Palácio Nacional da Pena.
According to Sintra-Portugal.com: Castelo dos Mouros, Sintra, the origins of the castle date back to the 8th century with the Muslim invasion from the north of Africa. The site of the castle provided a suitable vantage point with views over the estuary of the river Tejo and the plains to the north of Lisbon, with the aim of controlling the strategic land routes linking the Mafra, Sintra, Cascais and Lisbon. Arab chronicles depict the Sintra region as being very rich in cultivated fields and the Castelo dos Mouros was one of the most important castles in the region, more important than the castle of central Lisbon.
The initial crusade led by King Alfonso VI of Castile captured the Castelo dos Mouros in 1093 but with limited forces was driven out the following year. The castle flourished with the return of the Moors and defensive fortifications were improved.
The increase in fortifications was not enough to repel the second much larger crusade which freed Lisbon (and then Sintra) from Moorish rule in 1147. The crusader army led by Afonso Henrique’s army was comprised of drunks and thieves, who upon liberating Lisbon promptly sacked the capital. Sintra and the Castelo dos Mouros withstood longer than Lisbon but succumbed to the siege and sheer numbers of the crusaders’ army. Afonso Henriques and his son D. Sancho both strengthened the castle’s defenses but the royal court favored Lisbon. The castle remained in the background, with its prestige steadily declining. By the early 15th century, the only inhabitants were Jewish settlers. With the Jews’ expulsion from Portugal in the mid-15th century, the castle was abandoned (Sintra-Portugal.com: Castelo dos Mouros, Sintra).
Much of the Castelo dos Mouros was reconstructed during the 19th century as part of King Ferdinand II’s transformation of the Pena Palace and surrounding area.
I can also see the fairy tale-like Quinta de Regaleira and its grounds.
On an adjacent mountain, I can see the Palácio Nacional da Pena, which I will visit after leaving here.
After leaving here, I catch the Scotturb bus on its circular route to the Palácio Nacional da Pena.
Thursday, July 18: I leave Evora this morning on the 9:45 Rede expressos bus to Lisbon, which takes less than 2 hours. From the Lisbon bus station, I walk a short distance to the train station, hop on a train and arrive in lovely Sintra a half hour later. It’s an easier trip than I expected, and when I get out at Sintra’s adorable train station, I opt to take a taxi since I have no idea where Piela’s Hospedaria is located. It turns out it’s not that far, but it’s easier by taxi and I’m happy to spend the 5 euros.
My guest house is Piela’s Hospedaria and it’s run by husband and wife, Manuel and Leonor, and housekeeper Anna Maria. Manuel’s English is superb and he’s the friendliest man imaginable, making me feel welcome right away. He actually makes me feel like Piela’s is a home away from home. The guest rooms are on the second floor above the cafe. Both the Café Piela’s guest house and the cafe are run my Manuel and Leonor. (Café Piela’s)
After settling into the hotel and having some light lunch in the cafe, I venture out to explore Sintra. I head down into the modern town, following the signs for Sintra-Vila, the historical center of Sintra.
I walk through the part of town near the train station, where I see beautiful old manor houses painted in pastel colors.
As I pass out of this part of town, there’s a long stretch to walk down Alameda Volte do Duche, passing interesting sculptures along the way.
Once I get to Sintra-Vila, I can see that this is the place to be. The town is buzzing with tourists, shops, restaurants and street performers. In the center of this historic part of town sits the Palacio Nacional de Sintra, but I don’t know what’s what at this point. I couldn’t possibly think that the building with two huge ugly chimneys could be a palace. One of the funnel-shaped chimneys has been stripped of paint; it sits in its gray concrete nakedness beside another white-painted chimney. The two chimneys look as if they’re part of an ugly factory in the midst of the adorable little town.
As I walk through the streets, I pass some boys playing a lovely mesmerizing song. An open guitar case sits on the stone courtyard in front of them, waiting for donations. I walk past them at first, but their song is so lovely that when I walk past again, I stop and sit on a bench to listen, dropping some money in their guitar case. I ask them, “Are you trying to collect enough money to travel through Portugal?” They ask me how did I know? I say, because it seems like something my own sons would do. They say, yes, they’re Spanish and they are traveling and supporting themselves with their music. They’re super friendly and they tell me they’re on Facebook: (Sutil). I tell them, “I think you’re going to be famous one day.” They’re flattered, but I really mean it. Their song is that good.
After leaving the boys, I continue to meander through the town, soaking up the atmosphere. I love it here!
At one point I stop for a Sagres and study the Lisbon Guide that Jo lent me in Tavira, reading up on all the things to do and see in Sintra. It’s funny, many people take just a day trip from Lisbon to Sintra, but I’m staying here for 3 nights. I honestly think it would be short-changing yourself to come only for a day trip.
After I finish my beer, I wander around some more, admiring the doors, the pastel colored houses, the red rooftops, the windows and balconies, the laundry hung out to dry, the flowering bushes and the crazy street performers. I listen to the music of Portugal, Fado, wafting out of the shops, sounding like a lament on a breeze. It makes me pensive. I stop into a shop and buy a CD of some of the music that’s playing: Ana Moura “Des Fado.” Lovely.
Sitting on a hilltop above the town, I can see the Castelo Mouros, or the Moorish Castle. With its undulating mountains, forests thick with ferns and moss, exotic gardens and hilltop palaces, Sintra seems a land right out of a fairy tale.
At Restaurante Taverna, I stop for a glass of wine and some sausages. This is way too much food for me, and quite heavy, and I end up leaving most of it behind.
I go up to the restaurant’s shop for a taste of Port; here I buy a can of sardines as a gift for Mike.
Then I make my way back through the town toward my hotel.
Back along the road from Sintra-Vila to the train station, I pass by the Moorish Fountain, which belongs to the romantic-revivalist period and was built around 1922 by the master sculptor of Sintra, José da Fonseca. Its decoration is Arab in inspiration, with neo mudejar azulejos, painted plasterwork and sculptured decoration (Virtual Tourist: Moorish Fountain, Sintra).
There are more sculptures along this road.
In the town near the train station, I pass by the elaborate Town Hall.
And more pastel colored houses…
Along my walk back, I can see some of the green forests for which Sintra is known.
I head back to Cafe Piela’s, where I have a beer and use my computer. Cafe Piela’s is mostly a bakery, although it also serves sandwiches and soups, so it has a glass case where the baked goods are displayed. The glass case serves as the counter. I’m amused that the Portuguese patrons drop into the cafe, order a beer, and stand at the glass case to drink their beer. I wonder why they don’t have a seat at one of the tables. They just stop, drink the beer, pay their bill and leave. Not like the bars I’m used to in America, where people have a seat at the bar, have a couple of drinks, socialize, and linger. I see this numerous times while I’m in Portugal and I always find it funny, and charming, when I see it. 🙂